The whole thing.

Google’s own My Maps embed sets two tracking cookies with an eighteen-month lifetime and pulls forty-odd requests from seven Google hosts — including Google Fonts — before it draws a single tile. It also has no dark base map.

So this page does it differently. A scheduled job on my server fetches the public KML export of the same My Maps map, strips it down to names and coordinates, and writes a small file next to the site. This page reads that file. The base map is vector tiles from OpenFreeMap, which needs no key and sets no cookies — it does see your IP address, which is noted in the privacy notice.